“The stronger the oenology, the more uninteresting and duller the wine,” is
an assertion Harry Paul sets out to disprove throughout Science, Vine and Wine
in Modern France. Science—in the forms of viticulture (the science of
vines) and oenology (the science of wines)—has saved the French winemaking
industry more than once from ruin. A delectable story that falls flat in the
finish: overly complex, fragmented and excessively dry. Published by Cambridge
University Press, £45/$64.95, ISBN 0521497450.
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